The Mountains of Northern Vietnam

Drive north-west from Hanoi and the rice plains give way to mountains within a few hours. The roads climb, the air cools and the valleys fold into terraces cut by hand over generations. This is the Hoang Lien Son range, home to Fansipan, the highest peak in Indochina at just over 3,100 metres.

A cable car now runs close to the summit from near Sapa, but the older way up, a steep trek of one or two days, is still there for those who want it.

Terraces and seasons

The rice terraces around Sapa and Mu Cang Chai change colour through the year. Around May and June they are flooded and mirror the sky. By September and early October they turn gold before harvest. Winter is cold and often misty, with occasional frost on the higher ground, and spring brings plum and peach blossom to the hills.

Each season suits a different kind of trip. Autumn is best for walking and photographs, while the wet summer months bring green valleys, heavier rain and fewer visitors.

The people of the highlands

The mountains are home to many of Vietnam's ethnic minority communities, including the Hmong, Dao, Tay and Giay. Each has its own language, dress and farming traditions. Weekly markets, such as the Sunday market at Bac Ha, draw people from surrounding villages to trade livestock, textiles and food, and to catch up. Visiting with a local guide, and asking before taking photographs, makes a real difference to how these encounters feel on both sides.

Further north: Ha Giang

Along the Chinese border, Ha Giang is rougher and more remote. Its loop road winds through the Dong Van Karst Plateau, a UNESCO Global Geopark, and over the Ma Pi Leng Pass above the Nho Que River. Distances are short on paper but slow on the ground, and it rewards travellers who give it several days.

Many people ride it on the back of a motorbike with an experienced local driver, stopping in small towns where the evening market is the main event.