Hanoi wakes early. By six the paths around Hoan Kiem Lake are full of people doing tai chi, badminton and slow laps, and the first pots of pho broth have been simmering for hours. The Old Quarter's narrow streets still carry the names of the goods once sold on them: silk, paper, tin. Each block has its own rhythm of motorbikes, hawkers and plastic stools.
Walk a few streets south and the city changes register. Wide, tree-lined avenues lead past ochre colonial villas, the Opera House and quiet pagodas. Hanoi rewards slow wandering more than a checklist. Give it two days and it starts to feel like a place you know.