Ninh Binh looks like Ha Long Bay with the sea drained away and rice planted in its place. Karst peaks rise straight from flat paddy fields, and slow rivers wind between them, passing through caves so low the rowers duck their heads. In Tam Coc, many of those rowers steer with their feet.
This was once the seat of power. Hoa Lu served as Vietnam's capital in the 10th century, and its temples still stand at the foot of the mountains. The Trang An Scenic Landscape Complex is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the countryside around it is best explored slowly, by boat and by bicycle.