Ho Chi Minh City, still called Saigon by nearly everyone who lives there, is Vietnam at full speed. Motorbikes pour down the boulevards, glass towers rise over French-era landmarks, and every alley seems to hold a cafe, a noodle stall or a small shrine.
History sits close to the surface. The War Remnants Museum and Independence Palace tell the story of the 20th century, the Cu Chi Tunnels lie outside the city, and in Cholon, the old Chinese district, incense coils hang from temple ceilings. Then night falls and the city eats: broken rice with grilled pork, banh xeo, snails and cold beer on low stools.